DOMAINE PHILIPPE LIVERA (previously des Tilleuls)

This 8.5 hectare domaine was founded in 1920 by the great grandfather of Damien Livera, who currently runs the property. Prior to Damien taking over in 2007, the grapes (from old vines planted in the 50s and 60s) were sold to the large Beaune negociants. However, since 2007, there has been a total regeneration of the domaine – low yields, a strict form of lutte raisonée, no herbicides, manual working of the soils and a total upgrading of the vineyards and a new winery – and a resultant quantum leap in quality.

In terms of winemaking, after a rigorous selection, the grapes are almost always destemmed and undergo a cold maceration of about a week, prior to a long fermentation – Damien’s cellars are cold and fermentation and malolactic are often prolonged. The wines are matured in barrel for between 11-18 months and bottled without fining or filtration.

The Côtes de Nuits Villages, from vines planted in the 50s and 60s, on the minerally soils of “Preau” in Brochon is gorgeously seductive. “En Champs”, bordering Brochon, just under 1er Cru Champeaux. Very thin topsoils, straight into limestone bedrock gives great tension and minerality. 50% of the vines were planted in 1950 and 50% in 1970. 40% new oak, meaty and plush with flavours of black fruits and licorice. “Clos Village”, 1.5 hectares, in the heart of old Gevrey, below Clos St Jacques, of mainly 70-75-year-old vines and some planted in 1935 and 1920. The scree and fossil soils, washed down from the Combe de Lavaux, always give elegance, combined with the natural dark-fruit character. 40% new oak. This wine is is darkly powerful with great refinement. Their profound Grand Cru Chapelle-Chambertin was planted in 1952 in the lieu dit of Les Gemeau, directly below Clos de Bèze. 3 months in cuve, then 12 months in 75% new oak, then 3 months en masse.

We were absolutely smitten by the concentration, generosity of fruit and precision of these outstanding wines.