DOMAINE CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE ET FILS

Although their first commercial vintage was only in 2002, this is now one of the finest and most sought after domaines in Chablis.

They have 6 hectares of Chablis Grand Cru and 5 hectares of Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon. These are wonderfully sited vineyards which for generations have been the personal property of the Moreau family. The family now have no connection or contract with the large and respected négociant of the same name.

Christian, a larger-than-life personality, and his highly qualified oenologue son Fabien are making spectacular hand-crafted Chablis. All their grapes are handpicked from vines which average 40-70 years old.

Chablis, 2 parcels totalling 5 hectares. Fonteney-Pres-Chablis gives fruit, Beru provides structure. Both plots are 40 year old vines, facing south. Vinified in stainless steel. Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon, 5 parcels in Le Vaillon (the best and original part) as opposed to Les Vaillons. Average 50-year-old vines. 35% barrel fermented (4% new oak).

Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, 2.9ha parcel, averaging 55 years old, in one block, in the middle of Les Clos, top to bottom. 40% barrel fermented (4% new oak). Great, seamless harmony. Chablis Grand Cru Valmur, 1 hectare in two blocks on both sides of Valmur. 55-year-old vines. 50% barrel fermented (4% new oak). Power and structure. Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir, planted in 1998. 50% barrel fermented. 3% new oak. 50% stainless steel tanks. A wine of great finesse and elegance. Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots, a tiny holding of 37-year-old vines facing south east on marne soils, on the top of Blanchots. A cooler site than Clos and Valmur, with no afternoon heat. Vinified in 100% 5-year-old barrels. Fresh, tight and pure. 2 barrels made. Chablis Grand Cru Clos des Hospices, 0.5ha, 35-year-old vines at the bottom of the slope, which has been in the family since 1904. More clay than the other cuvée of Les Clos, it is broader, fuller and richer. 60% barrel fermented (4% new oak), 40% stainless steel tanks.

These are brilliant, bracing, classic, minerally Chablis. They are now certified as organic.

www.domainechristianmoreau.com