DOMAINE FERNAND ET LAURENT PILLOT
CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET
The Pillot family have been growing grapes in Chassagne-Montrachet since the 19th century. Laurent has handed over the reins to his son, Adrien the 6th generation. Having worked in South Africa (Hamilton-Russell), New Zealand, Oregon and Australia – including longer élevages for some of the white wines. Whilst Laurent said the domaine was “80%” organic, Adrien is converting the domaine to organic viticulture. Today the domaine comprises nearly 15 hectares and covers over 22 different appellations.
Laurent strongly believes in low yields and a strict form of viticulture, which he describes as being “80% organic”. Any necessary treatments are kept to the very minimum possible. All his white wines are vinified in barrique and are characterized by purity, accessibility, fresh fruit flavours and minerality, rather than oak. 1er Cru Vergers is from 0.9 hectares of 60 year old vines on rock, with little topsoils.
The wine is, accordingly, very tense and minerally. 1er Cru Morgeot is from the top part and is less open-knit and plump than most. 1er Cru Champgains is from heavier soils and is rounder and more accessible. His finest white holdings are from 1er Cru Vide Bourse, 40+ year old vines (directly next to Bâtard Montrachet) which is chiselled, tense and salty and 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes, which is on shallow, rocky limestone (the same soils as Chevalier Montrachet), above Morgeot. It is always ripe and generous, yet intensely minerally.
His reds, which are generally 100% destemmed, have improved beyond all recognition over the last few vintages. They are ripe, succulent, elegant and delicious. The Volnay is lovely, sweet and open-knit. Pommard “Tavannes” is from 45 year old vines just next to Les Epenots. It is always plush, ripe and accessible. 1er Cru Les Rugiens is a grand vin, in every sense, coming from 1/3 Rugiens-Haut and 2/3 Rugiens-Bas (the better bit!).
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